Swallowtail dragon boats: A thousand years of heroic tradition on the Yuanjiang River

文/宫岳霖 何小平

翻译/简功友 希拉里·维罗妮卡·图洛克（Hillary Veronica Tulloch）

Written by: Gong Yuelin, He Xiaoping

Translated by: Jian Gongyou, Hillary Veronica Tulloch

辰溪人的血性，一半咆哮在安坪火龙狂野炽热的烈焰之中，一半奔腾在龙头庵燕尾龙舟劈浪竞渡的江涛之上。

In Chenxi County, half of the people’s valiant spirit is best embodied in the fire dragon dancing amid the bursts of the wild fireworks and firecrackers in Anping Town, and the other half in the swallow-tail dragon boats racing through the waves at Longtou’an Township.

沅水自贵州斗篷山奔涌千里，从中方铜鼎镇赤岩湾蜿蜒流入辰溪七姓瑶乡。这一江浩荡碧波，正是辰溪流动文脉最鲜活、最壮阔的注脚。

Rising in Guizhou’s Doupeng Mountains, the Yuanjiang River journeys for hundreds of miles before winding past Chiyanwan Village at Tongding Town in Zhongfang County and into a place home to seven clans of the Yao ethnic group in Chenxi. More than a river, it is the living artery of Chenxi’s cultural heritage.

陡然撞入眼帘的，是龙头庵江面的沸腾！发祥于此、历经六千三百余载的燕尾方头龙舟文化，以气贯长虹之势，与火舞龙腾、狂轰猛炸的安坪火龙文化相映生辉，水火相融，堪称沅水流域民俗的千古绝唱。

Arriving at Longtou’an, visitors are met by a scene of extraordinary energy. The Yuanjiang River seems to boil with excitement as drums thunder across the water and dragon boats gather for one of the region’s most spectacular traditions—a magnificent display of the local ancient square-bowed and swallowtail-sterned dragon boat culture, tracing its roots back over 6,300 years. Full of noble aspiration and daring, it shines in a perfect match with the exuberant Fire Dragon traditions of Anping Town, with the Dragon dancing amid the fireworks and firecracker explosions, each adding charm to the other. The interplay of water and fire makes up the immortal folk melody along the Yuanjiang River basin.

大端午的鼓点一敲响，龙舟赛事便如约启幕。一面面绣着“米、肖、许、舒、谢、戴、陈、刘”等姓氏字号的赤橙黄绿大旗，迎着江风猎猎翻飞，尽显古韵豪情。

Once the first round drumbeats of the Major Dragon Boat Festival[1] echo across the river, the dragon boats race brings itself to us as promised. Against the river wind, banners in vibrant hues of red, orange, yellow, and green flutter triumphantly, each embroidered with the clan names—Mi(米), Xiao(肖), Xu(许), Shu(舒), Xie(谢), Dai(戴), Chen(陈), Liu(刘)—unfurling the ancient grandeur and heroic spirit that define this timeless tradition. 

龙头庵扒龙舟的气势与热闹，早已声名远扬。每至端阳，辰溪、中方、洪江三地百余条龙船齐聚于此，共赴这场传承千年的水上盛会。全国各地慕名而来的游客将江岸围得水泄不通、人山人海，只为一睹百龙竞渡的豪迈风采，感受这份独属于辰溪的民俗热力。

The thunderous dragon boat race at Longtou’an has earned its renown far and wide. Every Dragon Boat Festival, over a hundred dragon boats from Chenxi, Zhongfang County, and Hongjiang City converge on the river in front of Longtou'an for a grand aquatic spectacle rooted in a thousand years of tradition. Drawn by the fame of this long-lasting pageant, visitors from across the nation throng the riverbanks, packing every inch of shore in a sea of people—all eager to witness the breathtaking charge of a hundred racing boats and to bask in the vibrant folk spirit that belongs uniquely to Chenxi.

江面上，艘艘龙船劈波列阵，势如奔雷。船艄燕尾翘得比天还高，船头恰似鳄鱼怒张的大口，气势汹汹；船身若力大无比的巨蟒，拱动之间暗蓄雷霆之力。每条船上两三名掌艄汉子齐攥舵杆，忙而不乱，胳膊上的青筋随鼓点突突跳动；棹手们弓紧脊背，黝黑的臂膀绷得发亮，落桨时拼尽全力，恨不能让龙舟挣脱江面、凌空飞驰。

The boats surge forward in formation, cutting through the river like living creatures. Their swallowtail sterns rise proudly into the air, while their crocodile-shaped prows seem poised to strike. Beneath the surface, the long hulls twist through the water with the power of giant serpents. On each boat, two or three steersmen grip the tiller in controlled urgency and practiced unison, veins on their arms pulsing to the drumbeat. The paddlers hunch their backs like a bow, their dark, sinewy arms glistening as they drive their oars deep with every ounce of strength, as though willing the boats to tear free from the river and take flight.

时至辰刻，沅江之上，百龙毕集，百鼓齐擂，百锣齐响，百号齐鸣，百炮齐放，百旗齐飘，万众齐呼！声浪震天撼地，恰应了“燕尾穿云贯长空，蟒身鳄喙势如龙；千声战鼓摇山岳，万棹惊涛撼宇穹”的雄浑气魄。

As the clock hits seven, the Yuanjiang River erupts into life. Dragon boats crowd the water, drums thunder, gongs clash, horns blare, firecrackers explode, and banners stream in the wind as thousands of voices rise together in a deafening roar. The spectacle reverberates across the river valley, echoing the majestic grandeur captured in the verse:

Swallowtails pierce the clouds and span the boundless sky,

Python-hulled, crocodile-bowed, they loom dragon-high.

A thousand war drums throb, the rolling mountains shake,

Ten thousand oars churn waves that earth and heaven quake.

船头众多舞头旗的汉子里，石溪口村那位米姓“大胡子”尤为惹眼，活像从年画里走出来的猛张飞。只见他昂首立在船头，浓眉倒竖，豹眼圆睁，满脸络腮胡透着剽悍之气；双手各执一面小红旗，随着鼓点翻腰摆臂、摇旗挥舞，起落间红旗如烈焰翻飞，尽展排山倒海的磅礴气势。“上了龙船，就莫让老班子失面子！”大胡子扯开嗓子，带着龙头庵特有的略带沙哑乡音，朝着船上棹手们高声喊话。话音未落，龙船便如离弦之箭，破开碧浪向前疾驰而去。

Among the flag dancers standing at the bows of the dragon boats, one man is impossible to miss: Mr. Mi from Shixikou Village. With his thick beard, powerful build, and fierce expression, he looks like Zhang Fei himself—the legendary warrior stepping straight out of a traditional New Year print. Standing firmly at the prow, he grips a small red flag in each hand. As the drums thunder across the river, he twists and turns in rhythm, sweeping the flags through the air. Their flashes of red rise and fall like flames above the water, drawing every eye along the riverbank. “Once we step onto this dragon boat, we cannot disgrace our village!” He shouts to the crew onboard with the rough local accent of Longtou’an. Before the last word leaves his mouth, the boat surges forward. Oars bite into the water, spray flies into the air, and the dragon boat shoots across the river like an arrow released from a bow.

“推脑”亦称“掐龙舟”，是龙头庵扒龙船最野性、最热血的灵魂所在。两艘对赛龙船上，坐于船头的壮汉，以“箍、扳、扣、推、拉、顶、扛、甩”等各式招式，将对手掀入水中，或奋力把对方船只往后推，以己方船只抢先抵达为胜。

Locally called Tuinao (literally “Bow Pushing, also known as Qialongzhou “Dragon Boat Grappling”), this brutal, high-spirited contest is the raw, fiery soul of Longtou’an’s traditional dragon boat racing. In head-to-head matches, burly fighters perched on the bows of the two opposing boats use a full set of grappling moves—locking, wrenching, clamping, shoving, yanking, ramming, hoisting, and flinging—to either hurl their opponents into the water or heave the rival boat backward with all their strength. Victory goes to whichever boat hits the finish line first.

每当两船劈浪而来，渐渐靠拢、近在咫尺时，立在船头的几条彪形大汉便大吼一声，拉开架势，捉对比拼，瞬间将龙舟竞渡的氛围燃至顶点。坐在最前排的汉子往往身形魁梧，胳膊粗如水桶，扎稳骑龙步，牢牢定住下盘。在两船并行靠拢的刹那，双手以迅雷之势抢抓对方船头分水，奋力将彼方船只向后推送。身后两名壮汉则紧紧箍住前面汉子腰身，如榫卯相扣，三人聚成千钧合力。对方汉子亦毫不示弱，迅疾掰开紧抓自家船头分水的手掌；若对方手劲太大难以掰开，便以肩扛、以头顶、以牙相抵，拼死相争。当双方激烈掰扯较劲，青筋暴起的臂膀死死纠缠、悬身船头之际，锣鼓一阵紧过一阵，双唢呐愈发激越高亢，号子声、助威声、呐喊声一浪高过一浪，震彻整条江面。

As the two dragon boats race through the waves and draw alongside one another, the men at the bows let out a roar and prepare for battle. In an instant, the race becomes something more than a contest of speed. The lead fighter, usually the biggest and strongest one onboard, braces himself at the prow. As the boats come together, he lunges forward and grabs the rival bow, driving with all his strength to force the opposing boat backward. Behind him, two teammates lock their arms around his waist, combining their strength into a single powerful push. Undaunted, the men on the opposing boat fight back immediately. They pry at gripping hands, shove with their shoulders, and strain with every muscle to regain ground. When strength alone is not enough, the struggle becomes even more fierce. Neither side is willing to yield. Bodies hang over the water as the men wrestle for position, arms locked and veins standing out beneath the skin. Around them, the drums and gongs pound faster and faster. Twin-pipe Suonas scream across the river. Cheers and shouted encouragement erupt from both banks. Then the river explodes with noise as the struggle reaches its peak.

待一方船头高过对方尺许时，船头壮汉猛地发力，一把将对方龙舟推开，舞头旗者随即刹旗息鼓。获胜方船头一众汉子，满脸霸气，狂吼嘶鸣；划手们齐齐将船桨扬向天空，连举三下，高呼“得赢了，得赢了！”个个神气昂扬，豪气冲天。对手虽心有不甘，也只得暂且收势，蓄力再战。如此循环往复、此起彼伏，场面火爆热烈，引得两岸观众热血沸腾，助威呐喊声响彻云霄。

When one boat finally pushes its bow clear of the other, the contest is decided. With a final heave, the victors force their rivals aside. The signal flags drop, and the drums abruptly cease. A shout of triumph rises from the winning crew. Oars flash against the sky as the paddlers lift them three times in celebration, chanting in unison. Across the water, the defeated crew retreat reluctantly, gathering themselves for another attempt. Yet there is little time to dwell on victory or defeat. Another challenge soon begins. Again the boats collide, again the fighters grapple, and again the riverbanks erupt with cheers. The contests roll on one after another, turning the Yuanjiang River into a spectacle of strength, rivalry, and communal pride.

“推脑者”的胸、背、脸面脖颈，常被抓抠得伤痕累累，却为了村寨荣誉义无反顾。这一源自上古祭祀、由古楚战船演变而来的民俗，早已铸就辰溪人“宁荒三年田，不输一年船”的精神图腾，为流淌不息的辰溪文脉，添上了最炽烈滚烫的一笔。

Those who take part in Tuinao often suffer badly scratched and bruised chests, backs, faces and necks, yet they never flinch for the honor of their villages. Rooted in ancient sacrificial rites and evolved from warships of the ancient Chu Kingdom, this folk custom has long become the spiritual totem of the Chenxi people, captured in their timeless proverb: “Better three years of fallow fields, than one lost dragon boat race”. It adds the most blazing, fervent brushstroke to the enduring, living cultural heritage of Chenxi County.

为倾力支持娘家人扒龙船，龙头庵的外嫁女们纷纷携礼金、烟酒、粽子、红绸、鞭炮等回娘家“赏红”，娘家人则以震天三连铳鸣炮致谢。这既是对传统龙舟民俗的赤诚敬重，更是娘家亲友的体面与荣光。及至竞渡现场，娘家人将红绸系在高扬的燕尾之上，驾龙船沿岸边缓缓巡游。外嫁女们早已备好“红牛”“芙蓉王”“千丘泉”及糖果零食，待龙船驶近，便将好物分撒给船上健儿；在外打拼创业、远道返乡的本村乡亲，也纷纷送上红包心意。一份份温情心意，一声声喝彩鼓劲，更激得瑶乡健儿们奋勇争先、一往无前。

As the Dragon Boat Festival approaches, married daughters who have left Longtou’an return to their family homes bearing gifts—small offerings of money, cigarettes, baijiu, rice dumplings, red silk, and firecrackers. Their arrival is greeted with the crack of local ceremonial Sanlianchong (three-barreled hand cannon) salutes that echo across the valley. Known locally as Shanghong, the custom is both a blessing for the dragon boat crews and a proud homecoming for the women themselves. Along the riverbank, families tie lengths of red silk to the soaring swallowtail sterns of the dragon boats, wishing the crews good luck in the race ahead. On race day, the boats glide slowly along the shore as villagers gather to cheer them on. Married daughters hand out Red Bull energy drinks, Furongwang cigarettes, Qianqiuquan mineral water, sweets, and other treats to the oarsmen, while villagers returning from distant cities offer gift money in traditional red envelopes in support of their home teams. Every gift, every cheer, and every gesture of encouragement add to the excitement, urging the rowers to push harder as they race for victory.

时至午后三时，龙船陆续泊岸休整。回乡赏红、帮忙助阵的外嫁女们，早已将热气腾腾、香气四溢的炖缸牛肉、宝刀腊肉、毛狗肉、坨子肉、水豆腐、庖汤、血鸭等瑶乡佳肴摆满八仙桌，再摆上系着红绸的“莫喝醉”高粱大曲，热情招呼扒船健儿：“今天大家都拼得尽兴，多吃点，放开喝！”一时间，碰碗声、划拳声、茶山号子声、互和山歌声、男女欢笑声此起彼伏，村寨处处欢腾热闹。喧嚣人声裹挟着酒肉醇香，在沅水之畔久久萦荡。

By mid-afternoon, the dragon boats return to shore and the racing finally gives way to celebration. The married daughters who came home for the Shanghong tradition have already prepared a feast. Tables groan under Yao dishes, slow-cooked beef, cured pork, fresh tofu, blood duck, and other local favorites, while bottles of sorghum liquor tied with red ribbons await the returning crews. “You’ve worked hard today—eat, drink, and enjoy yourselves!” The women call as the oarsmen gather around the tables. Before long, the village is alive with laughter and songs. Baijiu bowls clink together in toasts, drinking games break out, work chants echo across the square, and folk songs are traded back and forth between friends and neighbors. The aroma of food and alcohol drifts through the air as the celebration carries on beside the Yuanjiang River long into the afternoon.

一船燕尾，一棹豪情，一脉传承。这场激情竞渡，竞出了辰溪瑶乡儿女骨子里的刚毅血性；这阵震天呐喊，喊出了沅水大地生生不息的滚烫热忱；这千年文脉赓续，点亮了六千三百年不灭的文明薪火，在岁月长河中熠熠生辉、奔流不息。

In these races lives the courage and determination of Chenxi’s Yao people. In the thunder of drums and cheers echoes the enduring spirit of the Yuanjiang River valley. For more than six millennia, this tradition has kept the flame of local culture alive, shining brightly through the passage of time and flowing onward like the river itself.

[1] The Major Dragon Boat Festival is traditionally celebrated on the 15th day of the 5th month of the Chinese lunar calendar and is observed primarily in Southern China. The Minor Dragon Boat Festival is celebrated on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month and is observed throughout China.